Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Leethallee » November 28th, 2016, 2:12 pm

Hey I was told the white writing on the tyres is a whole layer of white wall....if you were to grind off the black on the side wall you would expose a white side wall, so I'm pretty sure the white lettering would survive scuffing...apparently using Jif creme cleanser (lightly abrasive household cleaner) keeps them nice and white.
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Leethallee » November 28th, 2016, 2:15 pm

My tyres got pretty dirty at the 75th Anniversary weekend meet here in WA and the lettering had some scuff marks which came off with a high pressure cleaner
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At the 75th Anniversary Weekend
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby philosoraptor » November 29th, 2016, 8:33 pm

Boost1995 wrote:True, philosoraptor I agree. Tho, I feel like having a locker at least in the rear is what makes the difference between a capable adventure Jeep and a regular one. Don't get me wrong all Jeep are awesome but when you're running around with everything 4 wheel parts sells with a stock diff. Well... NOW, a JP jeep is a totally different story, but I'm speaking more of your average Jeep on the road. So, I feel your Jeep is coming along nicely! After I finish a few more things for the JP conversion the first order of business is a rear eaton locker in JP19's D44, then front. 2017 the year of the lockers. Hahaha

Haha, that is definitely true, I agree with your sentiments. Personally I just didn't want to put any money into the rear axle that is notoriously weak Dana 35 (axle tube, thickness, ring gear size, etc). Thankfully I have a rear axle swap coming up!
I am soooo jealous of you JK people, already get a great Dana 44 axle in the rear! The E-locker sounds like a great choice that you are leaning towards; selectable lockers are the way to go, but of course you'll be paying premium $$ ahah. Looking forward to when you lock yours up!

Leethallee wrote:Hey Philosoraptor.....great build and your posts were funny as F@#K, very entertaining, I've heard that Aussies and Canadians have similar senses of humour :D
You obviously know you way around a tool box, I would'nt tackle half as much as you. I was looking at getting a diff locker, I've heard of the Eaton and ARB air lockers, but I will google the Aussie Locker (made in the USA :D)
A friend of mine has an old Series II Landrover with diff lockers front and back and it goes anywhere, most Aussie Jeep owners fit a lift kit straight away, but not many use diff lockers, no point having clearance if you don't have traction....
The BF Goodrich KO2 is a great tyre and looks freaking awesome too, I'm running the 31x10.5 as well, might go to 32's next time.
What is the brand of the oil pan/sump guard you have? I don't like the way the sump is just sitting out there in the open...it looks so vunerable, not that I will be doing as extreme off-roading as you, by the look of it.
Interesting you you refer to your off road adventures in the "bush" I always thought that was an exclusively Aussie word...

Haha thanks, I figured if people were tuning in they deserved some personality in the posts! Must be because we are all a part of the same commonwealth realm haha! The Eaton and ARB are great units, depends also what base axle you are starting with too though. The great thing about the ARB unit is you get bumped up to 35 splines, super strong stuff, there is a reason most people go that way. The Aussie (USA made, weird I know right :D ) is a good cheap way to add traction but depending on if you slap it in the front or rear will give different handling characteristics so be sure to use some good Googling.
That is good info on the white wall stuff, maybe had I known that I would have mounted things the other way around. Oh well! Next time!
The oil pan skid is from Metal Cloak http://www.metalcloak.com/Wrangler-Oil-Pan-Skid-Plate-p/2701.htm and should fit any Jeep with the 4L motor, fit great on mine despite a different than stock exhaust setup. I wouldn't say I am extreme, but it is cheap peace of mind for sure. How hard is it for you to bring in parts from other Countries? And yeah 'the bush' I guess I heard it somewhere and the term stuck around, more commonwealth commonality, lol
1994 YJ Sahara 4L/5sp - JP90 - Jurassic Trail Ready
http://www.jurassicparkjeep.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=5927
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Boost1995 » November 29th, 2016, 10:56 pm

Haha thanks man! My buddy informed me yesterday he has a used ARB front locker for the jk Dana 30 just needs a few parts and he will sell it to me for a good price. I'm gonna check it out in a few weeks to see how I feel about it. I would rather have the eaton but I can't turn down a great deal. it just all depends on price.
JP19 instagram: mutant_dinos
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Leethallee » January 7th, 2017, 2:55 am

Hey Philosoraptor,
sorry for the late reply.
Getting parts into Oz isn't too difficult, normally the overseas stuff is cheaper than local, the freight costs can sometimes make it waste of time though.
Haven't done anything on the Jeep lately, just enjoying the summer sunshine, still get lots of positive comments. There is another Jurassic Jeep here in Perth, the guy has fitted YJ front guards, flares and bonnet, it looks fantastic, I need to make sure I never park beside his though, it will show mine up big time.

Lee
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby philosoraptor » January 27th, 2017, 7:23 pm

Alrighty then, another photo and text dump of Jeep stuff incoming. Once again a good amount of time has elapsed since my last post here in the build thread for JP90 but that doesn't mean the Jeep has been sitting idly by. Over the winter we saw a good amount of snow here in Vancouver, not just limited to the mountains either. We saw plenty on the ground, so there were plenty of opportunities for parking like a boss and snowboarding behind the Jurassic Jeep.

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However with the snow, on occasion I would not be going anywhere and wouldn't bother to clean the snow off. So one day when I noticed a decent puddle on the driver's floor pan carpet I decided to look a little deeper. Unfortunately the prognosis was rust, luckily there was plenty of sheet metal still there. I don't think this was recent, probably been like this for awhile but just got worse. For now the fix was a healthy lathering of POR15 rust paint to seal things up. I then drilled an extra 1/4" drain hole because the factory drain hole isn't even the lowest point on the pan; Mopar quality. This should bide me some time until I get the tub LineX/Herculine/Bedliner'd this summer.

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One week before Christmas I got the call from my American postal box service that a big pallet had arrived. Enter my Ford 8.8 rear axle swap.

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I now have the complete confidence only offered by an 8.8" ring gear, massive 3.25" axle tubes, 31 splines, Detriot Truetrac Helical LSD, and disc brakes. Also concurrently the perches were switched to Spring Over Axle (SOA). This netted me about an extra 4" of lift, once again making the prospect of running 37s a possibility. Geared to 4.88, which is a little short for my 33" tires but more suited to my future plans of 37s. Still it is nice to get some acceleration and 5th gear on the highway back. Oh and I splurged and went with the Yukon Ultimate 8.8 kit which eliminates the c-clip axle retention method, adds set 20 wheel bearings, and gives you some beefy chromoly axle shafts. Hells yeah. Oh and the red ARB cover to mismatch my actual locker because I needed more red in my life. Magnetic filler notched to denote my minimum fluid level of 3 quarts.

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More ancillary mods were required, time to crack open the NP231 transfer case and install my JB conversions super short slip yoke eliminator. The main benefits are that you gain driveshaft length, get a smoother operating CV driveshaft, and a fixed yoke. One of the downfalls of the stock slip yoke is that if for whatever reason whether it be a broken u-joint/driveshaft or overextension and the slip yoke falls out the transfer case by design will puke all its fluid out the tail housing. Then you roast the innards. Not cool! Rough angles are superimposed on the last picture, with a CV driveshaft you want the axle pinion pointing 1-3 degrees below the output yoke to account for axle wrap. Busting out my protractor I'm sitting at about 7 degrees. This is a compromise at the moment, as down the road when I go 37s I will be going for high clearance fenders and lower lift springs to bring that centre of gravity back down. So the goal is to not have to get the spring perches welded again. I am currently waiting on some spring shims to get the pinion where it needs to be until that day comes. Part of running the super short SYE meant I had to ditch the stock speedo pickup. Just a simple splicing into the factory harness to attach a factory mopar connector which allows me to plug into the supplied sensor. Since we got everything out, might as well throw in some new tranny mounts in red, good thing because the old ones were about as supportive as my ex girlfriend BAZINGA.

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Now to combat some of the extra axle wrap that is inherent with a SOA setup I plan on installing a MORE traction bar (not pictured yet). One mounting point for that is the rear of the transfer case skid plate. Time to beef that sucker up! Time to burn some metal together with the welder. By the end of it all I almost remember how to do it. I sure did add metal alright, flat bar, stringers, square tube, check! Then sandblast time, super koropon primer, and 2 part polyurethane paint, in red of course.

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The axle came with a breather nipple however the size of that one compared to the factory breather hose weren't exactly the same. I concocted this mashup of metal to adapt it all. Her name is ANNA. With the adapter I terminated the factory hose near the rear hard brake line at the frame and was able to run new hose from there to the axle. Also welded a big piece of metal to protect it. Overkill for a breather; I know, I have a problem.

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Next up, custom driveshaft from Tom Woods. I can only say great things about dealing with them, not very often will the owner of the company personally respond to your questions and help you get the right product. While it may appear smaller in diameter it is certainly heavier and stronger than the old stocker. Pictured below at almost full extension, splines cut for the entire stub, and a good amount longer. On install I ran into a bit of an issue with the supplied bolts. Because the JB SYE comes with a high clearance yoke the bolts didn't penetrate far enough into the CV socket yoke and were causing me to lose sleep at night. Quickly fixed that with some much nicer looking bolts. As with anything custom you have to make things work, in order to get the bolts to slip into the yoke I had to shave the heads for extra clearance against the transfer case output housing. Still a good amount of metal left on the heads and now I have a good amount of thread extending into the CV yoke, add some red Loctite and bingo winning. All's well that ends well.

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Lastly a closing picture of JP90's current status, driveable but looking hilarious with the ride height difference.

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Short term goals (as in starting next weekend) are:

- Front Dana 30 spring over axle conversion
- New front ball joints from Synergy MFG
- Crossover steering kit from MORE, which means new beefy tie rod and drag link
- Alignment
- Regear the D30 to 4.88 to match the rear so I can reinstall my front driveshaft and not blow up my Tcase
- Install spring shims on the rear axle to correct pinion angle
- Remove 1" transfer case drop
- Weld on Traction bar from axle to rear of Tcase skid

Re-evaluated future goals in order of priority (starting Summer 2017):

- 37" BF Goodrich Mud Terrain KM2s
- Paired with Method MR105 beadlocks
- Metal cloak high clearance tube fenders front, rear (with corner guards), and rockers, paint matched champagne. Will have to redo the red plastidip stripes at that time
- LineX the tub
- Lower lift springs (come from 3" currently hopefully down to 1-2" pending on clearance gained by fenders)
1994 YJ Sahara 4L/5sp - JP90 - Jurassic Trail Ready
http://www.jurassicparkjeep.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=5927
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Boost1995 » January 27th, 2017, 9:37 pm

Holy smokes man! Your Jeep is coming along nicely. I'm loving how tough it looks now. I can imagine with a little more lift it's going to look like a beast! I can't wait to see all the goodies come together. Congrats on the hard work.
JP19 instagram: mutant_dinos
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Jurassic Vic » February 1st, 2017, 10:08 am

Nice build my friend! Great work on the seats too. Pretty jelly- wish I could reupholster mine. Thanks for the shout out on the pouches! They look great on your doors


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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Leethallee » April 2nd, 2017, 11:04 pm

Hey Phil, man you always impress me with your mods...extreeeeme!!!
Throw a set of 37's on the back and it will look ready for the Drag Strip ;)
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Re: Philosoraptor's Canadian JP#90 Build

Postby Leethallee » April 2nd, 2017, 11:09 pm

Hey Phil, if you do change to 37's would you be interested in selling your alloys to me???
I know postage would be a bit steep, but I would love to have the correct rims, I could always plan a Canadian holiday and bring them back in my oversize luggage ;)
I have a few friends that have been and loved it, especially the snowboarding :D

Lee
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