Kytor Industries JP17

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Kytor Industries JP17

Postby KytorIndustries » November 13th, 2016, 7:25 pm

I'll update this as I go, saving the first post for the beginning / current state photos.

Vehicle Specifications:
1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ
Sahara Edition with Air Conditioning
Engine: 4.0L I6 MPI AMC 242 "Power Tech HO" (High Output)
Horsepower: 190 hp @ 4750 rpm
Torque: 220 ft lb @ 4,000 rpm
Manual Transmission: AX-15 5-Speed
Transfer Case: NP231 - "Command-Trac"
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: Dana 35 C-Clip
Bolt Pattern: 5 x 4.5
Length x Width: 151.9" x 66"


Drawings and Templates:
[Front Bumper Tow Eyes] Drawing - Render
[Light Bar] Drawing - Render
[Front Fog Lamp Brackets] Drawing - Render
[Tub Stripe Angles] Corrected Template
Note: I am not responsible for the fit and function of these drawings.


Paint Specifications:
[Ext. Beige] Limco MM217.40 Basecoat (LJ1 Sand Beige Metallic Poly Substitution) - 1 Gal
[Ext. Red] Limco M6564A Basecoat (M6564 Ford Performance Red) - 1 Quart
Limco LR12 Reducer - 1 Gal
Limco LVC10 Clearcoat - 1 Gal
Limco LVH10F Hardener - 1 Quart
Limco LF10 Flattener - 1 Quart
Evercoat Dura Build Acrylic Primer Surfacer - 1 Quart
U-Pol Dolphin 2K Polyester Body Filler
[Rear Fogs] Krylon Stained Glass
[Int. Door Panels / Center Console] Rust-Oleum 2X Satin Hunt Club Green
[Int. Dash / Sun Visors] Dupli-Color Vinyl And Fabric Coating (HVP111 Charcoal Grey)
[Interior Tub] U-POL Raptor Liner + TBD SBP Tint
[Frame] POR 15 Semi Gloss Black + TBD Top Coat
[Misc. Black Trim Accents] Rust-Oleum Semi-Gloss Black


Paint Sequence:
[1] Sand dents and surface rust areas to bare metal
[2] Body filler
[3] Sand everything
[4] Etching primer on bare metal
[5] Primer surfacer coat
[6] Beige base coat
[7] Tape off stripes and red base coat
[8] Clear coat
[9] Sand, particularly stripe edges
[10] Re-clear coat


Accessory Specifications:
[Winch Plate] Ramsey 251128
[Light Bar] Custom Fabrication by Obsession Offroad
[Tow Eyes] Custom Fabrication
[Front Fogs] Delta Lights (01-6139-50BX) Thinline 100 (Mopar 56002784 Substitution)
[Front Fog Brackets] Mopar and Custom Fabrication (Mopar 56002290 Substitution)
[Bumper End Caps] Crown Automotive (Mopar 52040027AB Substitution)
[Rear Fogs] KC HiLites 1532 57 Series (KC HiLights LE Series #570 Substitution)
[Soft Top] Bestop 79120-37 Sailcloth Replace-A-Top with Clear Upper Door Skins (Mopar 4778476 Substitution)
[Soft Top Hardware] Bestop 55004-01 Factory Style Hardware Bow Kit (Mopar Soft Top for YJ Half Door Spice Substitution)
[Sport Bar Covers] Bestop 80009-37 Spice Sport Bar Cover
[Decals/Stencils] No Limit Customs
[Antenna] Hustler IC56 102" Whip Antenna
[Antenna Mount] ProComm JBC986
[Antenna Tie-Down] Kalibur-K101X
[JP17 Plate] Celebrity Machines
[JP017 Vehicle Pass] Retrocollection
[Tires] (4) of 30x9.50R15 BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO2
[Spare] (1) of 30x9.50R15 BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO
[Spare Lock Nut] Mopar 52088515
[Tow Receiver] CURT 13657 Class III Receiver
[Entry Guards] Smittybilt 7616
[Front Shackles] 5/8" Shackles (2)
[Soundbar] Vertically Driven 792501 6 Speaker Black (Mopar 82203031 Substitution)
[Door Pouches] ProjectVIC Replicas


Planned Aftermarket Accessories:
[Winch] Ramsey 6000 or TBD Substitution


Lighting Elements:
[Headlamp] (2) of H6054 (OE)
[Parking] (2) of 3157 Bulb
[Front Fog] (2) of H3 Halogen
[Front Side Turn Signal] (2) of 194 Bulb
[Brake] (2) of 1157 LED
[Third Brake] Removed
[Reverse] (2) of 1157 LED
[Rear Fog] (2) of H3 LED
[Dash] (X) of 194 LED
[Footwell/Courtesy] 1156 LED
[Dome] (2) of 194 LED


Audio:
[Stereo] Pioneer MVH-X390BT Bluetooth Stereo
[Front Speakers] Infinity (Unknown Model via PO)
[Stereo Harness] Metra 70-1002
[Speaker Harness] Metra 72-1002
[Soundbar Harness] Custom 6-Pin Waterproof Connector

Before and After:
compare.jpg


Starting Photo:
_DSC0223b.jpg

_DSC0221.JPG


Ending Photo:
DSC_0152.JPG
Last edited by KytorIndustries on October 23rd, 2017, 6:13 am, edited 42 times in total.
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby KytorIndustries » November 13th, 2016, 7:38 pm

First up, time to build the paint booth.
IMG_8238.JPG


Gathering supplies.
IMG_8236.JPG

IMG_8279b.jpg


+1 Paint Booth. -1 Garage.
IMG_8451.JPG


A heat gun made quick work of the factory decals.
IMG_8352.JPG


The doors needed some very minor repairs.
IMG_8357.JPG


The "quick access" table continues to grow in scope. I'm losing sight of seiri methods in this project.
IMG_8445.JPG


The pictures don't do it justice, this color is magnificent.
Now I understand what people mean when they say LJ1 is both tan and gray.
Because of the metallic flake, the type of light and angle have a huge effect on the color. It glistens.
IMG_8441.JPG
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby RustyRodder » November 13th, 2016, 8:50 pm

Whoa! Looking good. Do you have heat in the garage since its getting coldhere?


Where in NY are you at?
JP25- Jurassic Park Maintenance, 1988 Jeep Comanche
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby KytorIndustries » November 13th, 2016, 10:38 pm

RustyRodder wrote:Whoa! Looking good. Do you have heat in the garage since its getting coldhere?


Where in NY are you at?


Thanks!

The weather has been mild (40's-50's) so a 23.8MBH Kerosene garage heater keeps up just fine. I'm hoping to have the tub painted before it gets terribly cold (next weekend if all goes well), but worst case I'll parallel it with a 60MBH LP heater.

I'm near Syracuse.
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby marscreature » November 14th, 2016, 1:53 pm

From what i've heard, you shouldn't paint the doors laying horizontally, the metallic flakes will reflect differently and make the paint look different than the paint drying vertically on the body.
1994 Wrangler Sahara - JP28 in Michigan
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby KytorIndustries » November 15th, 2016, 6:28 am

marscreature wrote:From what i've heard, you shouldn't paint the doors laying horizontally, the metallic flakes will reflect differently and make the paint look different than the paint drying vertically on the body.


From scrap panels I painted in advance, and how the low gloss reacts to light, I'm going to say that's plausible but unlikely. But I'll know soon enough and will report back. Worst case, I respray the doors, no big deal.
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby KytorIndustries » November 20th, 2016, 11:49 am

Another update. Over the past week I've been working on significant amounts of prep work. Repairing minor dings, dents, surface corrosion, etc. I'm at post Sand Beige Poly BC, and pre-red BC. Most forums recommend waiting 1-3 hours (varies by paint type, humidity and temperature) before taping for stripes. I'm currently running a heater in the garage and will play it safe with a 3-4 hour wait. I'd rather not have to repaint due to impatience.

The holes for the CB antenna were drilled out with a pilot and finished with titanium nitride coated 1/4" bit and a step bit. I often use cutting oil to extend the life of the bits. Cleaned up with a file and ready for primer.
IMG_8507.JPG

IMG_8524.JPG


The old door entry guards were long gone, with the hardest sticker residue I've ever come across left in its wake. This was a nightmare to remove and I basically had to take it down to bare metal. Lots of scraping, Goo Gone, 40 grit sandpaper followed by 120 grit and 320 grit. I'll replace them with new entry guards in the future, but will try to find some that screw in rather than glue.
IMG_8510.JPG

IMG_8511.JPG


With prep work complete, I was ready for primer and paint. The shop recommended Evercoat Dura Build primer, and I'm happy they did. It works great to build up a layer, and sands extremely easily.
IMG_8515.JPG

IMG_8521.JPG

IMG_8542.JPG


IMG_8519.JPG

IMG_8527.JPG

IMG_8552.JPG
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby Boost1995 » November 21st, 2016, 12:57 am

Awesome work! Congrats on the paint so far. It looks great!
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby KytorIndustries » November 21st, 2016, 9:02 am

I now have the tub stripes painted, I will be throwing on clearcoat tonight. I did come across an issue with the dimensional graphic that's floating around this forum. I disagree with the dimensions for the rear stripe. Following the proper angle (72.5 deg) from the rear edge of the middle flair leads me to 1.5" forward from the graphic shown. In order to use these measurements, the angle would be closer to 70 degrees. However, I know 70 degrees is not correct because going by movie reference documentation the front is clearly 72.5 degrees. I quadruple verified by measurements and angles of each stripe.


For a moment I thought it was my angle tool, but I validated it using good old trig and it couldn't have a more perfect tolerance. I used a laser level assist to make sure my lines were straight.
IMG_8556.JPG

IMG_8569.JPG



Feel free to chime in if you think I'm off here, but there's no way the dimensions can be correct and hold that angle. See below for corrections:
Revised Dimensions.JPG



IMG_8575.JPG

IMG_8579.JPG
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Re: Kytor Industries JP17

Postby Boost1995 » November 21st, 2016, 11:48 am

Coming along nicely. That's a great way to measure the stripes angles. If I ever remove the wrap and paint I'll use this method.
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